Pioneering on the Cheyenne River: Part 1, Pioneer Ranches
PIONEER RANCHES
O--O BRIDLE BIT AND OS RANCHES
The BRIDLE BIT (O-O) and OS ranches were also owned by the Union Cattle Co. Thomas Sturgis was president, G. B. Goodell and W. C. Lane were members of the company. This company ranged from 50,000 to 60,000 head of cattle and employed from ten to thirty cowhands, the wages of which were from $40.00 to $50.00 a month, the highest wages going to the cowboys who were employed most of the year.
The Bridle Bit (O-O) ranch was built about 1878 on the Cheyenne river, four miles west of the junction of Lance Creek. The house was constructed of round logs facing east, two rooms, with a stone fireplace on the north end, a board roof covered with dirt, in which grew sunflowers and weeds, with bunkhouse and corrals made of logs also. The outbuildings also had dirt shingles.
The Union Cattle Co. devised a scheme to hold land under what was known as the "Desert Act." They made a ditch from near the OS ranch to the mouth of Beaver Creek. This ditch nowadays would be called a "strip ditch," as they made a ditch on level ground, and when they came to rough ground, such as draws, canyons, creeks and the Cheyenne river, they would skip these and commence again where the going was good. But this scheme never materialized, as a Congressman heard of the scheme and started an investigation, and the project was abandoned. It was the company's intention to acquire title through desert filings. Some traces of this old ditch can be seen at the present day. One place in particular where it can be seen is on Jim Hammell's homestead, on the Cheyenne river. Other evidences of the ditch can be seen on Jim Reed's ranch, and at places near the mouth of Snyder creek. The building site of three of the old ranches has been destroyed by streams changing their channels. The Cheyenne River, having changed its course, has cut back and taken the building site of the Bridle Bit. The AU7 suffered the same fate. The ULA building site was destroyed by Lance Creek.
In 1888 the Union Cattle Co. claimed to be insolvent. It went into the hands of receivers in 1888 and the receivership was terminated in 1893. The Union Cattle Co. sold the Bridle Bit (O--O) filing to Anthony Wilkinson. Jim Reed is the present owner.
The OS ranch was near the confluence of Black Thunder creek and the Cheyenne river. The house was built of pitch logs and contained six rooms, with an office building, bunkhouse, shop, sheds and stables, also built of logs. The cattle were branded OS on the right side. They also used OSO and S on the thigh. In quoting from an old brand book dated 1883: "We sell no cattle with these brands."
But in the ensuing years these white-face cattle gradually gave way to sheep, as the next two owners, Anthony Wilkinson and Jesse Corneilson, were sheepmen. Mr. and Mrs. Corneilson owned and operated this old ranch for many years, and it was here they reared their family. The present owner is Amil Peterson. He first started out with sheep and cattle, then switched over to cattle altogether. He has probably one of the better small herds in that area. The old log house has been replaced with a four-room frame dwelling. Traces of old corrals and barn are still visible, silent reminders of the "Cattle King period." Mrs. Peterson died in 1941, but Amil is still holding the "Old Fort."
After the Union Cattle Co. closed out its cattle, they left a man at the Bridle Bit to pick up the remnants of the cattle. This man was a ventriloquist. One night after going to bed, a roaming cowboy dropped in and asked if he could stay all night. The old hand did not bother to get up, but told him to help himself, then pretended to be asleep, and as the visitor had not had his supper, he cooked it on the old fireplace. While he was eating, the old black tomcat was looking up at him, and the ventriloquist made the cat say, "Are both of us going to stay here tonight?" The fellow said, "Huh, what did you say?" The cat said, "I say are both of us going to stay here tonight?" The fellow replied, "I don't know what you are a-goin' to do, cat, but I'm leavin'."
ULA RANCH
This RANCH was built in 1880. John B. Kendrick helped hew the logs and build the ranch, a four-room pitch log house-three rooms in a row, with a kitchen and grub room added behind- a good big log stable, sheds and blacksmith shop.
The following article is taken from a letter written by Senator John B. Kendrick to Mrs. Oscar Jones, dated March 15, 1927:
"The logs were cut and hewed near the mouth of Alum creek by a man named Dick Tisdale and myself. It took us just one month, working Sunday the same as week-days, to cut and hew 120 large pine logs. On the last day I felled the trees and scored eight of the largest logs that we took out of the timber. I began at daylight and hardly stopped to get my breath all day long, in my anxiety to finish, which I did just about dark. I then had a bite of such food as we had in the camp, mounted a cow pony and rode to the ULA ranch and took the first bath I had taken for thirty days.
"I may say incidentally that in explaining the numerous bathrooms in my residence at Sheridan, I have frequently stated that during my time I had missed a good many baths that I should have had, and I was planning, therefore, in the future to try and make up for lost time. This work was done in November, 1880."
The ULA was on Lance Creek, about 12 miles from the mouth, or 4 miles west of the present site of the Bright post office. It was owned by Chas. Wulfjen and was named ULA in honor of Eula Wulfjen, the owner's daughter. John B. Kendrick was foreman of the ranch, a position he held for five years, and part owner a few years after the ranch was established.
Kendrick told of a cowboy dying and being buried on the big butte north of the ranch house. He said, "Three of the boys were herding bulls. One of the cowboys was overbearing and the other two did not get along with him, and some of them thought they killed him."
Wulfjen and Kendrick sold the ranch to the Converse Cattle Co. William Keating, who had been foreman of the 4W outfit for many years, purchased the ULA in the early '90's.
Mr. and Mrs. Keating were native Texans. They had four children, Willie, Jessie, LeRoy and Edna, who were all born while they lived at the 4W. The winter of 1896 three of the Keating children were of school age and the district agreed to give Keating a school for six months, providing he could get five pupils, so the writer and her sister, Elvira Hogg, boarded with the Keatings and went to school in the old ULA. Mrs. Minnie Hart, a highly educated Southern lady, who had taught the previous winter in Lusk, was teacher.
The writer recalls hearing Mrs. Keating tell of a trip they made the previous winter (1895) to Edgemont, South Dakota, with their teacher, Miss Houston, who had been suffering with the toothache. The evening before they made preparations for the long journey to Edgemont by gathering big stones and warming them. These hot stones were foot-warmers the pioneers used. The entire family accompanied the teacher. That trip, to the children then, was as exciting as one would be to the children of the present time going to Hong Kong. They left home at 3:00 a.m., in sub-zero weather. There was only one road then- the Cheyenne-Deadwood stage road. They followed this road to Robber's Roost Creek, then they turned down the Cheyenne river toward Edgemont, and followed it to the old 21 Horse ranch, crossed back to the south side. Here they stopped for dinner and fed and rested the team, built a fire and re-warmed the foot-warmers. They landed in Edgemont about 8:00 p.m. Even at that late hour they managed to get the dentist out, with a crude outfit, to relieve the aching tooth. They started to return the following day, but as business wasn't so pressing on the return as it was going in, they took time out to lay over all night at the 21 Ranch- that being the only house on the road. (There not being any dentist in Lusk, they had to make the trip to Edgemont.)
The following year (1896) the cut-off road was made from Edgemont west, saving a distance of about 40 miles. The old ranchers talked about living in "the 500 block" after they got the cut-off. Highway 85 virtually follows this old road from Edgemont to Mule Creek. After this trail was made, if winter came, the trip could be made from this community to Edgemont by leaving at sun-up and arriving at Edgemont by sun-set, with time out for a little walking to keep warm on cold days.
Hat Creek, a distance of more than 40 miles, was the post office. At Hat Creek was also the nearest habitable house south of the ULA. The 21 Ranch, a distance of about 40 miles, was the nearest habitable house northeast until Hoggs located on Lance Creek, but Keating's uncle, Will Piper, lived just three miles west of him. The old ranches were all abandoned at this time.
In 1897 Keating sold the ULA to Mert Jones and moved to Colorado. Mr. and Mrs. Jones and family moved to the ULA in the summer of 1897.
In 1898 a petition was circulated for a post office. The community was so sparsely populated that they had to get out on the extreme edges to get sheepherders and straggling cowpunchers so they could have the required number of names on the petition. But the Warren post office was established at the old ULA, with Mrs. Jones as postmistress, and Frank Decastro was mail carrier for many years. It was the first post office in this part of the country.
The first schoolhouse in this part of the county was erected about 1900 on the ULA. It stood near where the road crossed Lance Creek, southwest of the ULA ranch house. It was like all the early schoolhouses in this part of the State- a log building with home-made benches and desks. Competent teachers were employed eight months in the year, and the pupils were taught the rudiments of an English education. The foundation of this old school house was visible until the last few years, when it was scattered by the plowshares to make room for alfalfa and other crops. Thus has disappeared the last vestige of this "ancient temple of learning."
The old ULA buildings were erected on the north side of Lance Creek. The bank began to cut away and in 1903 Mert Jones tore down the old pitch log buildings. Two of the rooms of the old house were purchased by Elmer Brown and moved about four miles east, and are still habitable.
Mert built a good house about 1½ miles east of the ULA and lived there until 1917 when he sold the place and moved to California. Oscar Jones is the present owner of this ranch.
Tim DeVeny is the present owner of the original ULA ranch. The old log house has been replaced with a big modern two-story house, and alfalfa now grows on the bottom land where the ULA cattle once grazed.
21 HORSE RANCH
THE 21 ranch was built about 1886. John Sires was owner of this horse ranch, located in Wyoming, on the Cheyenne River, about eight miles west of the South Dakota State line.
All of the old ranches were built of logs, with the exception of the 21, which was built of rough lumber, stood on end. The lumber was hauled from the John Durst sawmill, near Custer, Dakota Territory. The house had three large rooms, two in a row and one built on the side. There was a bunk house, grub room and a big barn, sheds, blacksmith shop and corrals, one large corral that would hold 200 head of horses.
Custer, Dakota, was the first post office address, until the Burlington railroad was built in 1889. Then Dudley, Dakota, became the post office, thus saving a distance of about 25 miles for supplies and mail.
Dudley is at present a "ghost town," or a landmark of the days gone by. It was named in honor of Bill Dudley, an early-day cowpoke, who later on became famous as a civil and criminal lawyer. He also served as State Senator of South Dakota.
Mr. Sires, owner of the 21 Ranch, was born in Kentucky. There was a county and a town in Kentucky named for his ancestors.
Mr. Sires came west in the early 80's and established his Cheyenne River ranch, one of the biggest horse outfits of that period. His first foreman was George Williams, who worked there a few years, then absconded with the money sent to pay the ranch expenses.
Besides the 21, Mr. Sires also owned a ranch near Lewiston, Idaho, where in May, 1895, he was shot in the back and killed while feeding stock in his barn. A couple by the name of Goddard lived on this ranch and Mrs. Goddard shot him while he was at work.
In 1888, Matt Brown was appointed range foreman for the 21 company and worked in that capacity until the outfit was closed out in 1897.
John Williams of Douglas was appointed administrator to close out the 21 Horse Ranch.
In 1896, Jim Williams, brother of John Williams, of Monroe, Wisconsin was appointed range manager and worked there until it was closed out.
-T RANCH
THE -T was built in 1878. The original ranch house was built of logs, with a big bunk house, grub house, stables, sheds, shop, and corrals.
It was located about 15 miles south of the present site of Edgemont, on Hat Creek, Dakota Territory, with ranch and range on Cheyenne River, Hat Creek and Horsehead Creek. E. R. Whitcome located there and ran about 15,000 head of cattle. He sold it to "The American Cattle Co.", of which Harry Oelrich (from whom Oelrich, South Dakota, derives its name) had a big interest. He ranged about 30,000 cattle.
After the railroad was built through Dakota, the American Cattle Co. built a packing plant at Oelrich and established headquarters there. They built a big underground stable, where they fed and fattened cattle. They were then butchered to be put in their own packing plant. The railroad also built stockyards here and cattle from the other big outfits, after being fattened on the ranges, were driven to Oelrich to be loaded on trains bound for market. Among the foremen of this cow outfit were Sam Moses and Al Powell. Some of the cowhands were Charles Roe, Lew Green, Ed Hart, Frank Blessing, Jim Bell, Ed Woolfolk, Ed Clark, Art Petty, Bill Wyatt, Bill Dudley, Wood Craven, John Colgan, Neal Jordan, Gunny Sack Charlie, E. B. (Lucky) Jones, Joe Marty, Henry Marty and Hugh Clark.
It seems the old Bar T was a "hatching ground" for Sheriffs, as two of the old cowhands, Ed Clark and Art Petty, later on became sheriffs of Fall River County, and they made good sheriffs, loyal to their calling.
Bill Dudley was for many years an attorney at Hot Springs.
John Colgan had a general store in Edgemont in the pioneer days.
Wood Craven was a county official and served Fall River County several years.
Bill Wyatt owned the Edgemont Telephone Exchange and considerable real estate in Edgemont.
In the early '90's, the American Cattle Co. sold the stock to Comstock & Richards, and Chippy Lampson bought the ranch. Will Landers is the present owner.
4W RANCH
THE 4W RANCH was built about 1880. It was located on the Cheyenne River, about 12 miles from the AU7 ranch. This ranch was owned by the Hammond Cattle Co., and ranged about 10,000 head of cattle. Range was the Cheyenne River and tributaries.
The three-room house was substantially built of logs, roofed with boards covered with dirt (the same as all other old ranch houses), the outbuildings, bunk house, grub house, big barn, wagon shed, blacksmith shop, which was very necessary in those days, were also built of logs. This old ranch house has been moved and remodeled and is still habitable.
Some of the foremen and cowboys were: William Keating, Mert Jones, Pete Danks, "Dakota" Snyder, Johnny Pate, Jack Dillon, "Hominy Bob," a cook, Bill Piper, George Lacy, "4W Bill" Presler, Bert Frazier, "Happy" Davis, Charles Quinn, Jack McGinnis, Charles McGinnis, George Saffel and Henry Cline.
This ranch has changed ownership several times, among the later owners being Tommy Turner, who sold to Len Sherwin. Ern Batton was his manager for many years. His sons, Gus and Jim Sherwin, are now operating the ranch. The boys, especially Gus, are very air-minded, he liking to do his share of the cowboying from the air, which he can do in a very efficient manner. They have constructed a large landing field and hangars on the ranch and have the agency for selling Aeronica and Blanca airplanes.
FL RANCH
THE FL RANCH was built in the '80's. It was located about five miles south of the Cross A, on Old Woman Creek.
The ranch house and outbuildings were made of logs. Frank Lusk, from whom the town of Lusk derives its name, was the owner of this cow ranch, with range on Old Woman and Lance Creeks.
Frank Lusk was general manager of the Western Livestock Co., and had an interest in their ranch on Running Water. About 1894 he abandoned the Old Woman Creek ranch and operated from the Running Water ranch, some 40 miles south.
After the Old Woman Creek ranch was abandoned, Charlie Schwartz stayed there until the fall of 1896, gathering the remnants of the FL cattle.
Mrs. Lusk, mother of Frank Lusk, built the first fine brick dwelling in Lusk (the George Earl Peet home). In pioneer days her house was out in the suburbs. At the present time it is close-in, being within half a block of the big modern Ranger Hotel.
After Charlie Schwartz left, Solon Clark and John Norton each occupied the FL.
The present owner of this old ranch is Ira Thomas.
9 9 9 RANCH
THE 9 9 9 ranch was built in 1880. Mather & Robinson Co. were the owners of this cow outfit, located near the junction of Lance Creek and the Cheyenne River, Laramie County, Wyoming Territory. Mather & Robinson had no title to the land. This unclaimed land was later acquired by Charles A. Guernsey, who obtained a patent to the land on which the improvements were built.
Charles A. Guernsey was superintendent and became part owner of the cattle soon after they located on Lance Creek. The cattle were branded 9 on the shoulder, 9 on the side, and 9 on the hip.
Chris Stortz was one of the first foremen. Some of the other foremen and cowboys were: Hunter, Ed Wilson, Chuck Pierson, Happy Dougherty, Jack Evans, Dogie Robinson.
They built a very good log ranch house, consisting of three big rooms in a row, with a grub room for storing provisions, which was very necessary in those days when they had to haul their supplies from such long distances. It was built on the west side of the house and there was an underground tunnel from the grub room to the bank of the creek, which was dug as a protection against Indians. The house had two big rough-stone fireplaces built on the west side, and around these two old fireplaces was the birthplace of many a wild and wooly tale.
Hat Creek, Wyoming, a distance of 40 miles, was the postoffice. The regular elections were held at the 9 9 9, where the cowboys from the Bridle Bit, 21, ULA, Cross A, AU7, 4W and Fiddleback, and many other ranches, came to exercise their franchise and get the neighborhood gossip. When the 9 9 9 was established, this was the center of a good game country. To quote Guernsey from his book, "Wyoming Cowboy Days" . . . "Buffalo ranged thick in the 9 9 9 neighborhood. In the fall of '83, while on the beef roundup on Robber's Roost Creek, about eight miles from the 9 9 9, they jumped a bunch of buffalo estimated at 700 head. Elk, black and white-tail deer and antelope were plentiful."
The first cattle sent to market from the 9 9 9 were shipped from Ogallala, Nebr., to Chicago--no yards then in Omaha.
The 9 9 9 closed out in 1890. People who lived at the 9 9 9 after Guernsey abandoned it were Mr. and Mrs. Bill Powell and daughters, Mrs. Stine and Alberta, and Mr. and Mrs. Trumpeter and family. Alberta married George Highely, druggist for many years at Edgemont, So. Dak. In 1892 Mary· Herman, now Mrs. Matt Brown, was visiting with the Trumpeters at the 9 9 9 ranch. A rider dropped m at the ranch and mentioned seeing some emigrants camped five miles away. He also mentioned there were some women along. Mrs. Trumpeter and Miss Herman hadn't seen a woman for six or seven months. There were no saddle horses available at the ranch at that time, and as they were so anxious to see a woman, they walked the five miles. The emigrants were very glad to see them, also, and urged them to stay for supper, which invitation was accepted. It was quite dark before Mrs. Trumpeter and Miss Herman trekked back to the 9 9 9.
In 1894, the 9 9 9 was occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Ed Crowell and family, Henry and Bessie. Henry was the wireless telegrapher on the battleship Oregon before World War I.
In the spring of 1896, John Berry, winner of the great horse race from Chadron, Neb., to Chicago, Ill., was lambing his sheep and camping at the old 9 9 9. It was said he purchased his sheep from the winnings of the race. William Pearson camped at the old 9 9 9 the fall of 1896. He came to the country with a herd of around 500 head of horses which he had driven from Idaho.
In 1902, Mr. and Mrs. John Lull came. They were the last people to inhabit the 9 9 9.
AU7 RANCH
THIS RANCH was built about 1880. It was located at the mouth of Snyder Creek, about 20 miles from the mouth of Lance Creek, or the 9 9 9 ranch. The house contained two big round-log rooms, rough stone fireplace on the north end, two bunk houses, store room, log barns, sheds, shops and corrals. This ranch was owned by the Suffolk Cattle Co., and ranged about 25,000 head of cattle. Range was on the Cheyenne River and tributaries.
J.B. Thomas was manager and Webb Arnett was superintendent. Jeff Bagley, an old-time trail driver from Texas, helped cut the logs for the house and buildings at the first location at the mouth of Snyder Creek. They were later removed up the Cheyenne River about five miles. Jeff came in with their first trail herd from Texas and worked for them until they sold the place and stock. He saw the transaction made. It was about a $20,000 deal. The money was carried in a valise in a buckboard, finally, to clinch the deal. The team and buckboard were also included in the deal. At this time there were no filings and there was only a squatter's right. The buildings had very little valuation.
Some of the first foremen and cowpunchers were: Jeff Bartey, Gene Mullen, Curt Spaugh, Dogie Robinson, Jeff Hewett. Charlie McGinnis, a man named Graham, Bob Hewett, Mert Jones, Jack Andrew and Joe Billington.
Matt Brown, working for the S&G, tells of being sent to the AU7 the summer of 1886, when they were rounding up a large herd of cattle to be shipped. He said: "There was a Texan by the name of Graham who was also at the ranch. During a quarrel at the TOT ranch, Graham had killed a man, and he was known among the cowboys as "Deadeye," for he had the reputation of being the best shot in the country. The cook at the AU7 wanted a couple of roosters for dinner. "Deadeye" asked which two he wanted, and then shot their heads off with his six-shooter as they were pointed out to him." (By Malcolm Campbell in 'Annals of Wyoming.')
Fort Fetterman and Cheyenne were the postoffice addresses.
The AU7 has changed ownership a good many times since the pioneer days. Among the later owners are: Lamb & Carlson, Billie Eastman, Huff Brothers, Charlie Grieves. "Jiggs" Thompson is the present owner.
S&G RANCH
THE S&G WAS BUILT in 1878 by the Union Cattle Co., or the Sturgis and Goddell outfit, who had an interest in the Union Cattle Co. This was one of the largest cattle outfits in Wyoming Territory.
The S&G ranch was situated on a tributary of Beaver Creek, at the base of the Black Hills, just over the line in Dakota Territory. Their range was in all directions, but chiefly in Wyoming. The cattle were branded S on the shoulder and G on the hip. The ranch consisted of a three-room log house, bunk house, with grub room attached, sheds, large log barn and blacksmith shop. The postoffice address was Custer, Dakota Territory, until the Burlington railroad was built through Dakota, then there was a postoffice, station and stockyards built which was called S&G until after the Spanish-American war when the name was changed to Dewey.
The railroad was laid as far as the S&G on October 30, 1889. The Dakota Wyoming boundary line was crossed the same day at 9:45 a.m. The first spike in Wyoming was driven by John Smith.
One of the first foremen of the S&G was "Old Bob"- (no one remembers his surname). Other foremen and wagon bosses were: Shock Hall, Jesse Durst, Jimmy Laramie (who ran the first wagon), Ed "Pug" Lindsey (who ran the second wagon). Snow and Capie Dixon were horse wranglers for Pug Lindsey. Capie was day wrangler and Snow was night wrangler. Some of the cowboys were: Walt Woodruff, Matt Brown, a man named Sharp, Sam Bass, a man named Miller, Charlie Petro, Jack Kelley, Bob Harper, Lee Carr, Walt Soper, George Curry (the notorious outlaw shot in "the Hole-in-the Wall"), Frank Smith, Gene Randall, Sam Bunker (afterward court reporter for Fall River County for many years). Joe Billington and Joe Doudy were cooks. After the S&G closed out, Joe Doudy filed on a homestead on the Cheyenne River, near the Wyoming-South Dakota State line, and there he lived until he passed on, to check on the other old cooks who had preceded him in the march to the big kitchen. Most of these cowpunchers were early day settlers of this community.
CROSS A RANCH
J. H. FORD was manager of the Cross A, located on Old Woman Creek near the confluence of Old Woman and Lance Creeks. These old ranches were all built about the same time-from 1878 to 1883-and the Cross A was one of the first ones built. This outfit ran about 15,000 head of cattle, branded A on the side and A on the hip. Range was on the Cheyenne River and all its tributaries.
The ranch house was built of round cottonwood logs, three large rooms in a row (old ranch style), fronting east, with two rough stone fireplaces on the west side.
Two of the cowboys who worked for the Cross A were Harry Dougherty and Dogie Robinson. Harry worked there when the country was abounding with buffalo. He said that one morning while he had gone to look for horses he spied a bunch of buffalo and decided to have a little sport. He took down his rope and the chase was on. Harry said there were two accidents which happened together. The first was when he got his rope on a young buffalo, and the second was when the bull got away with the rope. Then he turned his attention to something that was more in his line by rounding up the saddle horses and returning to the ranch. Harry also worked for the 9 9 9 outfit and was one of the last men to leave there when it was closed out. He filed on a 10-acre homestead on Indian Creek and lived there a number of years. By hard work and ingenuity, he built up a splendid ranch which was well stocked with cattle and horses. He disposed of his holdings on Indian Creek and took a vacation in the south. While on this vacation he met a "land shark" who deprived him of most of his life savings. Quoting Harry: "This hijacker sold him some land that was at the bottom of a lake, and there wasn't enough land in sight to build a house. He didn't have any desire to live in a shanty boat, so he walked off and left his lake to the fish and alligators. The last information he had, although he hadn't signed over a deed, the fish and 'gators still had possession." Harry returned to this country and stayed a few years, then migrated to Shoshoni, where he used his additional land right and built another ranch. He died at Lander, Wyo., a number of years ago.
PIPER RANCH
THE PIPER RANCH was built by William Piper in 1890, or thereabouts, on Lance Creek, three miles west of the ULA.
Mr. Piper left his native State of Texas when a young man and came to Wyoming, working for various cow outfits. He started to work for the 4W in the early '80's and worked there until he located on his ranch on Lance Creek.
The old three-room house was beautifully located among the cottonwood trees, and the buttes (the Piper Buttes) add to the natural beauty of the landscape of this old ranch. There was also a bunk house for the cowboys and other help.
Mrs. Piper was a "mail-order woman," or a "Heart-and-Hand woman." She married Mr. Piper about the time he located on Lance Creek. Mrs. Piper came from Chicago, and, rumor had it, she had been an actress. She was medium size, and weighed about 125 pounds. She was a little hard of hearing, had partly grey hair which she kept curled (or her bangs) all the time. She was an expert horsewoman and would ride (on her side saddle) to visit the neighbors quite frequently. She was so fastidious that if any one knocked at the door she would not go to open it until she changed her apron. About the only piece of furniture she had was a large oil painting of her brother. Her house was spotless and I have heard many pay tribute to Mrs. Piper's cooking.
William Keating, who purchased the ULA ranch on Lance Creek, was a nephew of Mr. Piper. As the Keatings called them "Uncle Bill and Aunt Ellen," they were affectionately known by those names to all their neighbors.
The Pipers boarded the line riders for the big outfits through several winters. In the days before the wire fence the cattlemen had their ranges, where they endeavored to hold their cattle by line riders, and no cattleman let his cattle interfere with another's range.
Ed Woolfolk, range boss for the Cross Anchor outfit, rode the line and wintered a couple of winters with the Pipers. He also ran the wagon for the Cross Anchor in this country for a number of years. In the latter '90's, he married Libby Castle and established his own ranch near Belle Fourche, South Dakota.
Charlie Harvey was also a line rider. He worked for the Fiddleback outfit. Another line rider who boarded with the Pipers for several winters was Pack Paine, also from Texas. On his return from Texas, where he had been visiting, he told the following story on himself: One day when out riding on the plains of Texas he stopped at a homestead to get his dinner gratis. It turned out to be the homestead of two old maids and a bull dog. They kept the bull dog for self-protection. Pack dismounted and entered the yard. As he neared the door the bull dog came from the opposite direction and met Pack face to face. Knowing bull dogs as Pack did, he could see from the expression on the dog's face that there were no good intentions. Pack threw everything in reverse and started for the gate. The bull dog was so close he could not make the gate, so he just ran around the house. The bull dog had a block and chain on him, and when he made the turn the block would catch on the house and that would slow him up a little and give Pack a new lease on life to the next corner, but not enough time to open the gate, and so the race went on for about eight rounds. Then one of the old maids stepped to the front door and asked him, "What will you have?" Pack replied, "Have the yard gate open the next time I make the round." The old maid laughed and said, "You are good for several rounds yet."
However, for the benefit of those who may not be altogether familiar with the word "line riders," there are two kinds. One was very essential for the man who owned cattle, and the other was one who was out of work and just making the rounds to try out the hospitality of the ranchers.
In 1902, the Pipers sold their holdings on Lance Creek and moved to Colorado, where they purchased a fine irrigated farm. They had not been there but a few years until Mr. Piper was killed by being dragged by a horse.
FIDDLEBACK RANCH
THE FIDDLEBACK RANCH was built in 1879. It was located on the Cheyenne River about eight miles west of the 4W ranch. The house was substantially built of logs, which, together with bunk house, grub house, barn, shop and other buildings, was made of logs. E. F. Tillotson was owner of this cow ranch. He was a military man, a colonel, and had been stationed at Fort Fetterman.
The following information is derived from the book, "Wyoming Cowboy Days," by Charles Guernsey:
"On his way from Cheyenne, driving alone, in the summer of '83, the Colonel was stopped by road agents, and when he yielded only a few dollars, was politely but forcibly told that should they overtake him again, it would be well for him to have a larger amount."
The range was the Cheyenne River and tributaries. Among some of the foremen and cowboys were: Ashfork, wagon boss; Bob Bryson, wagon boss, who was shot and killed at the ranch; Carl Rohlff, foreman; "Grey" Jack, cook, who drove four little mules when with the wagon; Dan Owens, Charlie Harvey, George Lacy, wagon boss; Sid Dodd, Pack Paine, Lew Mathews, Ford, "Dad" Akers, Bill McAdams, Sam Groves, who also died and was thought to have been poisoned, as a bottle of strychnine was found which had the imprints of three fingers; cowhands Jess Boner, R. A. (Pete) Lockett, Carl Searles, foreman, and Vic Lamont. Some later owners were John Williams and John Morton.
H O G RANCH
BUILT IN 1895, John T. Hogg and sons were owners of this ranch, located on Lance Creek, three miles south of the 9 9 9. The ranch house contained three big log rooms with a bunk house and grub room built of lumber. This building was within ten feet of the house. The house was built on the Cheyenne-Deadwood trail, within a hundred yards of where the Lance Creek stage station stood. Boon May, guard of the treasure coach, used to make this station his headquarters.
One of the most picturesque spots was selected for the site of the ranch buildings, among the large cottonwood and willow trees, with the wheatgrass hay meadow on the west and Signal Rock and cedar grove on the north. The latchstring was always out and all trails led to Hogg's.
In 1896, while fencing the yard, Will Hogg uncovered a set of heavy white dishes, four plates, three cups, saucers, vegetable dish and pitcher, which had been buried many years before, as the ground was well packed around them. It was the supposition of various ones that some fellow had heard of the Indians coming and had buried his possessions, and they undoubtedly got him, as he never came back to recover them. The next stage station about 12 miles north, near Robber's Roost Creek, was burned by the Indians. The summer of 1896 was extremely dry. What little grass that grew was eaten by the range cattle. Mert Jones and the Hogg brothers drove their cattle to Lightning Creek, where there was more feed, and spent the winter in a dugout. Those were the days before the wire fence and gas wagons, and the roads to the different towns were only dim trails left by wagon wheels on the native grass, and when these were obscured, the traveler kept his eye on an occasional landmark, a tree or distant butte.
In November, 1896, Chief Horney Frog with his band came on his annual hunt, and while he was camped near the Hogg ranch, he came every day for dinner. One afternoon Jim Hogg and Mert Jones went hunting with Horney Frog, to show him where the antelope were most plentiful. They killed two on this trip and took them to the Indian camp. While Jim and Mert were talking horse trade, the squaws prepared the antelope for supper. Horney Frog, to reciprocate for their hospitality, invited them in on the big feed. They served raw liver, raw heart and entrails. Mert and Jim told them they could smoke the pipe of peace, but they couldn't eat a late supper. Horney Frog brought his band every year until 1903, the year of the last Indian skirmish.
In November, 1905, the Hoggs had a man working for them by the name of Joe Bothwell. A couple of strangers stayed all night at the ranch, and the following morning a South Dakota Sheriff arrested them. Bothwell informed the two suspects that they did not have to go with the Sheriff, as he had no extradition papers. The Sheriff overheard the legal advice, and then arrested Joe for obstructing justice and took him along and put him in jail at Edgemont. The jail was just a little one-room shack. When the deputy came to give Joe his supper, Joe jumped out, locked the deputy in, and, nature being what it is, Joe left without his supper, headed back to Wyoming. Mike Carroll was deputized to hunt him. Mike rode out into Wyoming and stopped at a sheep wagon to warm. When he opened the door he met the man he was looking for. Joe picked up the herder's old gun, which was unshootable, and pointed it at Mike, told him to slip off his overcoat, overshoes, cap and gun, put them all down in one little pile. Joe then ordered Mike to back away so he could get out. When he went out he ordered Mike into the wagon. Joe told him, "Mike, I hate to do this, but your own brother might do the same thing. I'll be out tonight, but you can stay in the wagon where it is warm." Joe left that night, departing so fast that the law never caught up with him. He left Mike's horse at Hogg's, and it was stated afterward that Mike's things were sent to him from Alliance, Neb.
In 1910, John T. Hogg sold his interests in the ranch to his sons and bought property in Florida.
In 1914 the Hogg brothers sold their holdings on Lance Creek to Steve Cornell and moved to Snyder Creek.
The summer of 1919, another extremely dry year, the Hogg brothers took their cattle, 1,000 head of Texas steers, and 400 natives, to the Sioux Indian reservation, where they had secured feed and pasture. It was a severe winter. Early in November the storms began and continued with little break until the end of March. After buying thousands of dollars' worth of cake, the cattle died in hordes. When spring came the cattle tallied out less than 400 head. That was about the average death rate in the community where the cattle wintered. The Hogg brothers took the good years with the bad, all in the same good-natured way. The cattle were branded H on the shoulder, O on the side and G on the hip. Horses were branded lazy J cross.